Desayuno

When the afternoon sun is at its most vicious; and you are beginning to seriously second guess that distant ancestor who first crawled out of the sea onto the hot, dry shore; and you have been having fantasies of some kind of stellar catastrophe ejecting your home planet into the cold, soothing void of space; it is time for a tall glass of my favorite Senegalese drink: gingembre. Read more

On my first day in Dakar I had yassa, a Senegalese onion and lemon sauce, and I knew I was going to be enjoying the food for my whole stay. But it would be two more weeks before I was to taste what became my favorite Senegalese dish. A neighbor invited Teresa and me to lunch, and she served maffe.

I can’t offer you a place around the platter at Bintu’s house, but if you want maffe I do have some advice: From the Dakar airport, negotiate for a taxi ride to Yoff (You should offer 1000CFA, but you might not get better than 1500 from the airport.). When the driver makes a left turn off the main road, tell him to continue straight ahead. If it’s Tuesday, the street will be closed for the market, and you can just get out there and walk. The market is worth seeing. If it’s any other day, have the driver stop when you see a little white building on the right with “Saf Sap” painted on the wall. If it is lunch or dinner time, the door will be open. If not, the beach is only a few hundred meters further. Enjoy youself, and come back in a little while. They make two dishes a day, and one of them is usually maffe. It will cost 300CFA for a plate. Bring a container with you if you want takeout.

If you don’t plan on being in Dakar any time soon, you can make a very good version of it yourself, though it will cost more than 300CFA. But remember how to get to Saf Sap. After all, you never know. I didn’t plan on being in Dakar either. Read more