Desayuno

On my first day in Dakar I had yassa, a Senegalese onion and lemon sauce, and I knew I was going to be enjoying the food for my whole stay. But it would be two more weeks before I was to taste what became my favorite Senegalese dish. A neighbor invited Teresa and me to lunch, and she served maffe.

I can’t offer you a place around the platter at Bintu’s house, but if you want maffe I do have some advice: From the Dakar airport, negotiate for a taxi ride to Yoff (You should offer 1000CFA, but you might not get better than 1500 from the airport.). When the driver makes a left turn off the main road, tell him to continue straight ahead. If it’s Tuesday, the street will be closed for the market, and you can just get out there and walk. The market is worth seeing. If it’s any other day, have the driver stop when you see a little white building on the right with “Saf Sap” painted on the wall. If it is lunch or dinner time, the door will be open. If not, the beach is only a few hundred meters further. Enjoy youself, and come back in a little while. They make two dishes a day, and one of them is usually maffe. It will cost 300CFA for a plate. Bring a container with you if you want takeout.

If you don’t plan on being in Dakar any time soon, you can make a very good version of it yourself, though it will cost more than 300CFA. But remember how to get to Saf Sap. After all, you never know. I didn’t plan on being in Dakar either. Read more

If you were to stop your car in the far end of my neighbourhood and ask for the toubab* girl with the scooter, I’m sure someone would be able to take you to my house. Living in Yoff, a sandy fishing neighbourhood north of Dakar, certainly has its perks: food is cheap, there are ladies selling peanuts everywhere, and even the woman who sells cookies by the school gets worried if she hasn’t seen me in a few days. Some days ago I was wandering around the market at dusk when I ran into my six-year old neighbour. She sighed, took my hand, and walked me home with a big smile. Read more